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Questions for the authors upon the consideration of this book

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9:49 am
January 11, 2010


ihatemanuallabor

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I have played on and off for a few years — mostly live.  I have had decent runs winning over $1k at $1/2 on multiple occasions and almost $2k at $2/5 on a couple of occasions.  I have also had horrendous runs, including losing 12 times in a row with Aces and getting stacked from runner-runner suckouts three times in the course of two hours (live, so probably less than 50 hands) after being all in on the flop as a 96.5-97.5% favorite (according to Poker Stove).  I would like to be a winning player with a reasonable degree of consistency and predictably, so I've thought I might give it another shot this time sticking exclusively to the online game since it seems to allow for skill to show itself more readily as there are the potential for many more hands in a much shorter period of time and many more situations where you're up against one or just a couple of opponents versus the common live situation of damn near the whole effing table chasing you — even after a solid raise.  My questions are:

1. Is it important to have read and digested your first book _Professional No Limit Hold Em_ prior to this one?

2. Is Poker Tracker and a HUD necessary to implement your strategies?

3. Is a $25/hr. average multi-tabling $1/2 6 max online a realistic goal for someone who's willing to apply themselves?

4. What level of buy-ins/blinds should someone start out playing to learn/apply your strategies, even if they are already rolled for $1/2 6max (and what do you consider the minimum roll for a winning approach multi-tabling online 6 max $1/2?

Thanks

4:44 am
January 14, 2010


Rocketfingers

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1. No!

2. No, but helps a lot to multi table.

3. If you can play at 6 tables at once with a winrate of 4bb/100 than its realistic. Which is really doable with rakeback and with some experience, and it's easyer on a small site with lot of gamblers.

4. In the book they recommend 100 buy-ins, if you are a professional, if don't than probably 50 is enough if you can relload or move down when downsvings come, and you are not planning to cash out a big part of your monthly winnings.

10:44 am
January 21, 2010


the Man

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Post edited 6:45 pm – January 21, 2010 by the Man
Post edited 6:46 pm – January 21, 2010 by the Man
Post edited 8:19 pm – January 21, 2010 by the Man


What level of buy-ins/blinds should someone start out playing to learn/apply your strategies, even if they are already rolled for $1/2 6max (and what do you consider the minimum roll for a winning approach multi-tabling online 6 max $1/2?

it really depends.  the authors' suggestion of having a bankroll of 100 buyins is sort of a blanket and generic recommendation.  the authors were kind of reticent on giving a recommendation in the book, and i can see why.

game selection plays a big part of how big your bankroll should be.  you don't need anywhere near a hundred buyins for a bankroll if you are good at game selection.  one hundred is way too much, at least if you aren't multi tabling.

if you multi table eight games as opposed to playing only one table at a time, then your bankroll requirements will grow accordingly.

bankroll requirements are also dependent on you – how well do you handle losing?   think about this for a bit and be honest with yourself.

how often do you take shots at higher limits?  do you have the patience to grind away at your current limit for a sufficient period of time to grow your bankroll?  most people don't.

finally – and it's been mentioned before – bankroll is dependent on your playing style.  some styles have more variance than others.  are you aggressive?  do you commit only with the nuts (or near nuts)?  some players are check raise happy while some aren't.  some people like to gamble and push with AK preflop and some don't.  all can be +EV if applied correctly.

it's hard to give an answer on bankroll requirements.  it really depends.

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