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**** Session 1 : Pages 1 – 61 ****

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8:58 pm
June 23, 2009


Pete

Member

posts 46

Post edited 3:58 am – June 24, 2009 by Pete
Post edited 3:59 am – June 24, 2009 by Pete
Post edited 4:00 am – June 24, 2009 by Pete


Are you ready? :) I'd like to first welcome everyone to the first study group session over here at Small Stakes No Limit Holdem. I can't begin to tell you how excited I am to work with such a collection of great poker minds. Everyone ranging from the old vets of 6 max to do the new guys that'll no doubt bring a different and fresh perspective to the table.

While it's tempting to set timelines per session, I rather not go that direciton. In this study session, we're focus on pages 1-63. When someone feels like it's time to move on, they can simply create a new thread and assign the next set of pages.  Please keep in mind, while I'll do my best to help facilitate the discussion, I'm not here to decide what is right or wrong. It's the responsibility of each and every one of you to lend your expertiise so we can have good open discussions about the concepts. Feel free to post anything related to the pages assigned. You guys control the pace!


Here's what I would ask from each of you:


- Please have patience. Each of us is starting from a different reference point. Some might have years experience, some might be completely green to a specific topic. We can learn from each other.


- It's okay to debate, however, please attack the content and not the actual poster. I've seen so many discussions turn to a complete waste of time because contributors are attacking one another rather than debating the topic at hand.


- If you are talking about specific hand that was played, please give us as much detail as possible. You could include everything from individual reads, stats. table dynamics etc.. The more information you provide, the easier it'll be to help discuss the actual hand played. As you know, so much of poker deals with the dynamics in any given situation.


Here's what you can expect from me:


- I will be available through email as well as AIM to assist you in anyway possible.


- As the number of responses increases, I'll put together a summary of what's been discussed and what still is being debated.


- I'll offer exercises and take feedback on projects we can do pertaining to the topics discussed.


- I'll create a seperate thread concerning feedback. This will allow of us to continually make improvements while keeping this thread directly on topic.


Once again, welcome to the study group.

========================================


Assignment: Pages 1 – 61

Topics:

- The basics of stealing

- Understanding ranges

- Raise Sizes

- Button vs Cutoff Stealing

- Profiling Opponents

- Most common used stats and how they're applied


Opening Questions (feel free to discuss whatever you want, just an idea):


1. How comfortable are you with HUD statistics?

2. What stats do you use for your given HUD?

3. What are your typical ranges from each position?

4. How drastic does either table dynamics or your image effect your ranges?

5. According to the profile, what type of opponent are you? What opportunities do you have to modify that profile? Ex: ' I'm a thinking LAG. I find myself being exploited by players that take advantage of my 3 barrel bluffs' etc..

6. Discuss raise sizes from different positions, different scenarios. After reading these pages, do you plan to modify your approach?

7. Feel free to post hand history with stats/reads


Alright, let's get the party started!


Pete

11:01 pm
June 23, 2009


jz1014

San Marcos, TX

Member

posts 32

Post edited 6:02 am – June 24, 2009 by jz1014
Post edited 6:10 am – June 24, 2009 by jz1014


This is the first time I've ever participated in a study group, so forgive me if I am starting off base here. That being said, I'll give your opening questions a go:

I love my HUD, although I think that I tend to rely on it a little too heavily. Particularly at the lower limits (I primarily play 50 NL on full tilt), it is rare for me to have large samples on most people at my tables. I do try to profile people based on the numbers, but it can backfire a bit given the sample sizes. All that being said, even incomplete information is better than no information, so I do try to profile opponents as soon as I possibly can.

As for what stats I use, I tend to keep to the very basics. I use VPIP/PFR/AF/Hands on the main HUD. From all the videos I've seen, this is pretty elementry. My problem with having more stats on screen is that I find it clutters things up to the point where I can't use it effectively. I do keep several more stats on custom popups, and I do make use of those stats when I am facing a difficult decision (3 bet %, Squeeze %, Fold to 3 bet, Attempt to Steal, Fold to Steal, Cbet, Fold to Cbet, Double Barrel, River Bet, Donk Bet, Float %, Check Raise, and WTSD).

When it comes to opening ranges, I tend to stick to the ranges I learned from fee's 6 max guide, although after a couple months of stoxpoker and reading this book I have expanded my ranges from the CO, Bu, and SB to basically ATC based on the situation. If I have two nits behind me I am stealing pretty much 100% of the time, and I don't scale back versus worst players nearly as much as I use to. At 25NL and below I rigidly stuck to stealing around 30-35% of my hands, but since I moved to 50NL I have changed my game a bit there and it has worked wonderfully. I am not performing as well as I could from other positions, but from the Button I am playing 40/36 and making almost 25 ptbb/100. As loose as I am from the button, I am still pretty tight when OOP. This keeps me around a 22/19 preflop style, which I guess puts me somewhere between a solid and a loose TAG.

As for raise sizes from various positions… I find myself being a victim of my laziness. I know I should alter my opening raise sizes a bit more, but I tend to stick to whats convenient. On Full tilt, thats hitting the pot button. When I am on the button or the small blind I will lower my opening size a little, but instead of the preferable 2.5x raise I ussually just lower it to 3x since thats one simple click. Lazy I know… its so much simpler with the bet pot script but I have never been able to get that to work very well on full tilt (I used it all the time on stars though).

12:29 am
June 24, 2009


Pete

Guest

Fantastic first post jz1014. Has anyone opened up their game (based on book recommendations) to their point that you've scaled it back until you get more comfortable? Does anyone disagree with any of the steal recommendations? Any interesting spots you've come across lately that mirror a topic from the book?


Btw, I'm somewhat of a HUD monkey at times. Here's mine:


Abb Name

Hands

———

VPIP

PreFlop Raise

3 bet

Fold to 3 bet

Four bet

Squeeze

Fold Flop CB vs raise 3Bet Pot

———

Flop CB

Fold to Flop CB

Turn CB

Fold to Turn CB

River CB

Fold to River CB

———

Raise flop CB

Raise turn CB

Raise river CB

———

Steal

BB Fold to steal

Flop aggr

Turn aggr

River aggr

———

Flop CR

Turn CR

River CR

Went to Showdown

Won $ at Showdown

———


I typically 8 tables. It's usually split 4 tables from one site (monitor 1) and 4 tables the other (monitor 2). I keep tables at fullscreen.

12:37 am
June 24, 2009


Pete

Guest

HW 1 Exercise:


1. Download Flopzilla (google, it'll come right up)


2. Use the percentage of hands slider to get a feel for the following percentages:

10%,15%,20%,25%,30%,35%,40%


3. Why would you think this is important?

2:24 am
June 24, 2009


Zorne

san antonio, tx

New Member

posts 2

Post edited 9:26 am – June 24, 2009 by Zorne



Disclaimer: I'm relatively new to the game, I'm going to answer these questions to the best of my ability :p

First of all I've played about 23.5 k hands in my poker career, from .01/ .02 to .5/1. since trying to get serious about the game (january 09 timeframe) i've been sticking to .05/.1 trying to build the roll. I have about 14.6k hands at the level winning @6.94 BB/100. Before reading the book, I felt I played pretty weak tight..but according to the book I run anywhere between the nitty TAG to the loose TAG, I guess that usually depends on the cards I'm getting and who's at the table (my comfort level). I've read a couple books including this one and seen many a video at the site i'm a member of. My main issue I guess is application at the table. I have information rumbling through my head that I don't mind attempting, but sometimes it's difficult for me to apply, or i forget to check a particular stat on the hud and get burned only to notice during the hand that i really shouldn't have attempted that against said villain….now on to the questions (that i haven't answered here.

1. How comfortable are you with HUD statistics?

-decently comfortable with them, when I remember to use them in a given situation

2. What stats do you use for your given HUD?

-i copied the hud from RL Microlimit Grinder series

abb. name

—————

vpip

pfr

agg factor (which i'll be removing)

hands

—————

steal

BB FvS

SB FvS

Limp call

——————-

3-bet

Fold to 3-bet

Squeeze

———————–

Flop CB

Fold to flop CB

DB flop

Fold to DB flop

———————-

Check raise

Fold to Turn CB

Went to Showdown

(will be adding W$SD)

(Any input would be appreciated)

3. What are your typical ranges from each position?

I'm pretty strict UTG, if the table lets me be frisky, then I am..but typically follow basic guidelines any pocket pair usually, AK+, KQs, I open up from there…getting to the button depending on the blinds I'll open any ace, usually pretty cards, rarely any two, unless it's over the board obvious the blinds are tight. I find it difficult at my lvl to really have any stats on anyone, but the true regulars, so I usually go by feel. 


4. How drastic does either table dynamics or your image effect your ranges?

Usually my image/previous action, at least in my own head, effects my range tremendously, I know @ least from what I've read and watched that I'm missing on many profitable situations, some I see, some pass me by b/c of what's going on in my own head (ex. this guy saw me open x-amount of hands in the last 2 orbits, maybe i should pass up opening this pocket pair.)


table dynamics affect me just as much (in my head). I feel as though I'm being pushed around alot, when i'm getting active at the table, end up folding good hands that i should probably push with. I think my WTSD and W$SD reflect that, but i've been working on it and those numbers, I believe, are correcting themselves, somewhat.

5. According to the profile, what type of opponent are you? What opportunities do you have to modify that profile? Ex: ' I'm a thinking LAG. I find myself being exploited by players that take advantage of my 3 barrel bluffs' etc..

Answered somewhat above. I'm attempting to take what I've read and what i see explained in videos and apply that knowledge to my game. A majority of it has worked out for me, but I need more experience..more hands…and i need to be a little less gun shy.

6. Discuss raise sizes from different positions, different scenarios. After reading these pages, do you plan to modify your approach?

I usually raise 4x from UTG/MP, 3x from CO/Button. 2.5x on the button appears to me to be somewhat small in .05/.1 and would induce more action than necessary in my opinion since the opponents i face seem call hapy. So i guess it's either raise bigger (3x), or tighten up and raise smaller? I'm probably looking at this wrong, but I think stakes play a big part here? I am willing and have begun trying to pick up the blinds more, i still find it pretty difficult.


I look forward to participating and learning as much as possible here and really appreciate the opportunity… just take it easy on the new guy. lol

edit: I usually play 3 tables, anymore and it gets away from me. no autopilot as of yet, I'm trying to pay as much attention as possible to improve the game

1:56 pm
June 24, 2009


orestto

Mexico

Member

posts 17

6. Discuss raise sizes from different positions, different scenarios. After reading these pages, do you plan to modify your approach?

I usually raise 4x from UTG/MP, 3x from CO/Button. 2.5x on the button appears to me to be somewhat small in .05/.1 and would induce more action than necessary in my opinion since the opponents i face seem call hapy. So i guess it's either raise bigger (3x), or tighten up and raise smaller? I'm probably looking at this wrong, but I think stakes play a big part here? I am willing and have begun trying to pick up the blinds more, i still find it pretty difficult.


That will depend on how the blinds play.


Remember, if they defend by calling and then playing fit-or-fold, you can raise bigger because you will often take the pot on the flop with a c-bet. If the continue on the flop, you'll have to shut down most of the time if you don't have anything, but the times you steal will make up for the times you get called and don't have a hand. Btw, sometimes you WILL have a hand, or get opportunities the steal the pot in later streets.


If the blinds defend by 3-betting light and/or playing back at you at the flop, then tighten up (a little bit) and raise smaller. Also 4-bet light occasionally.


Remember, when you have the BTN, the blinds are basically at your mercy. They are not in a good spot to "defend" themselves, since they will be OOP for the rest of the hand. It really doesn't matter what they do, you can exploit them. If they fold too much, you take the blinds, if they call too much, you play a hand in position. If they 3-bet too much, you can call and play in position or 4-bet light. Being in the blinds is NOT a good deal. Being on the button is.


This is also why you should play tightly from the blinds. Don't try to defend yourself that much (except with good hands or if you're comfortable playing a pot OOP vs. this opponent). A lot of times, it'll be better to just fold and let the hand go than to build a pot with a marginal hand OOP.

7:30 am
June 25, 2009


Optimistic

Guest

Post edited 2:30 pm – June 25, 2009 by Optimistic


1. How comfortable are you with HUD statistics?

OK but have a few question at the bottom of this post.

 

2. What stats do you use for your given HUD?

 

VPIP/PFR/Aggression frequency(%)

3B/Fold to 3B

CBet/Fold to Cbet

Attempt to steal

Fold to steal

 

If I want more I look into the popup windows (donk bet% / checkraise etc)

 

3. What are your typical ranges from each position?

 

Meh depends too much now that I'm isolating limpers a lot and trying to steal. For EP/MP I'd say {AQo+,AJs+,22+,KQ} unless I have reason to open more.

 

4. How drastic does either table dynamics or your image effect your ranges?

 

A lot. If I 3bet a lot recently and they start playing back I have to tighten up. Or if I get caught doing a bluff postflop then I may have less postflop steal equity so I need to tighten up my range.

 

5. According to the profile, what type of opponent are you? What opportunities do you have to modify that profile? Ex: ' I'm a thinking LAG. I find myself being exploited by players that take advantage of my 3 barrel bluffs' etc..

 

TAG stats but doesn't exploit opponent tendencies.

 

6. Discuss raise sizes from different positions, different scenarios. After reading these pages, do you plan to modify your approach?

 

Raise size from MP/EP is 4bb as I'm very rarely stealing but playing strong hands.

Stealing from the BTN:

 

So if the blinds are tight and will fold a lot then you have high stealing equity preflop and so you can widen your range. If they are unlikely to call but instead 3bet or fold then choosing a smaller raise size will save you money when they do 3bet (provided that your smaller size won't make them call more/3bet more). If each blind folds 80% of the time then you can open ATCs.

 

If the blinds are looser and call more then it depends on what your stealing equity is postflop. If the villains play fit or fold, so their fold to cbet% is high, then you can keep a wide range and increase the size of your raise as you will pick up the pot (which is now slightly bigger so we make more).

 

If the blinds are looser and we do not have as much stealing equity (either they are a hardcore calling station or they checkraise flops/float cbets a lot) then we have to focus more on showdown equity and tighten our hand ranges.

 

Against players who 3bet or play back post flop we want to keep our raise size smaller (so we lose less if he 3bets) and cut the worst trashy cards from our range.

 

Against calling stations we can keep a larger bet size but we should significantly cut our range so we have a stronger range so when we do hit we can extract value.

 

Stealing from the CO:

 

Should be doing it a lot less as we won't always have position due to the BTN and now we have more people to act after us. So reduce the range. The raise size will depend on how likely your opponents are to 3bet and the same tendencies as above.

 

Stealing from SB:

 

This can change a lot as if the BB folds > 60% of the time we can open ATCs but if he adjusts we need to tighten our range up a lot as we are OOP and if we have a wide range we're at a massive disadvantage with bad position and a worse range.

 

Question

 

Main question that I have relates to the fold to cbet% stat and the check raise% stat. It also relates to pages a little after 61 but are still relevant here.

When we are stealing on the flop and cbetting what sort of fold to cbet % indicates fit or folders? I assume 60%+.

There are a few regs that often do not fold to cbets (ie 40-45% fold to cbet), particularly on boards so that miss our perceived range. I assume this indicates they float a lot and are not playing a fit or fold. I guess we shouldn't be cbetting as many flops and when we do, we prefer flops that either whack our range so much that they will fold or ones where we have a good opportunity to be able to barrell the turn. I also assume there are better 3barrell spots against these types of villains because they may know we would barrell the turn too so we'll fold a lot on the river.

For those regs that check raise fairly often, do we refrain from cbetting flops such as 994 (say when we raised in MP) or do we continue doing so but make the occassional 3bet rebluff?


2:15 pm
June 25, 2009


Pete

Member

posts 46

Optimistic said:

Post edited 7:30 am – June 25, 2009 by Optimistic


When we are stealing on the flop and cbetting what sort of fold to cbet % indicates fit or folders? I assume 60%+.



Fantastic post. I'm currently at work, so I'll address this the best I can. I really don't look at the fold to cbet% alone.. I use it in relation to the following stats:

Fold to Flop Cbet

Fold to Turn Cbet

Fold to River Cbet

WTSD

W$SD

If the opponent has a 60%+, I'm typically betting almost any flop into 1 opponent. Now let's say they have a 40% fold to flop cbet, I'm more interested in the odds of me stealing it on later rounds. I've noticed some opponents call a lot of flops but fold out a lot of turns (nits seem to follow this pattern calling with small/medium pps). So they might be fit or fold once the turn hits as opposed to the opponents that make the decision on the flop.

I also watch table dynamics quite a bit. if a guy is has a high fold to cbet, and I've pounded on him the past few rotations..  I might check it, hoping he'll make a move and then check raise. I'll do this with my strongest as well as weakest hands.

12:20 pm
June 27, 2009


PB

Member

posts 4

Post edited 7:22 pm – June 27, 2009 by PB
Post edited 7:23 pm – June 27, 2009 by PB


1. For the past year, I've played on sites that prohibited tracking software.  It was good that I somewhat learned to be more observational.  The year before that I mostly played live.  When I started playing poker in 2003, and PT2 came out, I used it mostly as a limit player.

Much has changed.  I will say though I'm more comfortable using it than a novice, but still admit that I have lots to learn to be truly comfortable.  That also can be said for the NL 6-Max game (as I was also I full ring player).

2. VPIP, PFR, 3Bet %, CB%, Fold to CB%, Aggression Factor.  The HUD I currently use has a pop-up feature that illustrates the other stats as well.

3.  Before reading these pages:

EP 77+ KQ+ AJs+

MP 22+ A2s+ JTs+ 75s+ KJo

CO and BTN A2o+ 54o KTo+

Now, I'm learning different ways to adjust these ranges.

4. What I hate is getting run over and not knowing how to defend myself, and when I try, I get completely lost on the flop decisions.  So instead of playing back, I get either more timid, or become overly aggressive.  Now that I'm using tracking software in the games I play, I don't give certain players credit as much as I used to.

5. Solid TAG, but I can be easily bluffed out of pots.  I have to change to becoming more of a Thinking LAG so I become more difficult to play against.  When I started, playing a solid TAG game did the trick.  Now, depending on the table composition, not so much.

6. I think when I study the barrelling and 3bet sections I will find ways to modify what I'm doing post flop.

12:51 pm
June 27, 2009


PB

Member

posts 4

Pete said:

HW 1 Exercise:


1. Download Flopzilla (google, it'll come right up)


2. Use the percentage of hands slider to get a feel for the following percentages:

10%,15%,20%,25%,30%,35%,40%


3. Why would you think this is important?


Hi Pete -

That is a great tool – I didn't know about its existence before today.

It gives you a visual of what the potential range of starting hands for a particular villiain if he/she plays 20% of his/her hands.  Knowing this, one could adjust accordingly, especially if the villain plays a fit/fold strategy post flop.

7:51 pm
June 27, 2009


karbyn

Member

posts 9

Pete – I love this also, and never knew it existed.   This is obviously great to help look at those PFR stats.

For my HUD, I use I use  VIPP/PFR AF:F/T/R Hands.  The site I play at doesn't have a HUD, so I wrote my own.  I am considering putting in PFR is the various positions (EP, MP, LP, Blinds ). ( I usually play FR, so the stats are a little more telling there than 6-max).


Great thread BTW.

8:06 pm
June 27, 2009


BT

i be on it all day

Member

posts 5

Does anyone know if it is acceptable to use FlopZilla while playing on FTP, or is that one of the programs you can only use when you aren't logged in to their software?  I can't believe I have never spent much time working with this program but it's something that I plan to do in the future.

8:30 pm
June 27, 2009


BT

i be on it all day

Member

posts 5

1. How comfortable are you with HUD statistics?

Very comfortable.  I have been using HUDs for a few years now actually.  Used to have PT2 back in the day but use HEM now.  The HEM HUD is very easy to customize, and I have even created my own pop-ups.


2. What stats do you use for your given HUD?

VP$IP / PFR / AF / 3-bet% / F-3bet

Fold SB to Steal / Fold BB to Steal / Attempt to Steal

C-bet Flop / C-bet Turn / C-bet River / Fold to Flop C-bet / Fold to Turn C-bet


3. What are your typical ranges from each position?

My UTG/HJ opening ranges are generally pretty tight and close to what was posted before.  They are mostly pairs, big aces, and occasionally I will open a suited connector or low suited ace. 


CO/BTN can get pretty wide and really depends too much on who is OTB and the kind of players in the blinds.


4. How drastic does either table dynamics or your image effect your ranges?

Probably not as much as they should.  It's something I'm working on.  Occasionally I find myself playing too many tables and I doubt I properly adjust.  I'm planning on playing more focused sessions from this point forward.


5. According to the profile, what type of opponent are you? What opportunities do you have to modify that profile? Ex: ' I'm a thinking LAG. I find myself being exploited by players that take advantage of my 3 barrel bluffs' etc..

TAG and on the tighter side.  I need to work on opening up my range from late position and in order to do that I also need to become more competent playing wider hand ranges post-flop.


6. Discuss raise sizes from different positions, different scenarios. After reading these pages, do you plan to modify your approach?

UTG/HJ/CO: generally open for 3x.  4x if there are huge fish in the blinds that i expect to call my raise OOP.  I will do that with my whole range.  Unless I decide to mash the pot button by chance….

BTN: generally 3x because my range is wide.  Occasionally I will start a session opening 2.5x and seeing how players respond.  This is good when there is a short stack in the blinds or an aggressive 3-bettor.

SB:  3x.  Sometimes 4x if I think the specific opponent will fold more often to the larger raise.

2:20 am
June 30, 2009


Keifullstop

Member

posts 5

1. How comfortable are you with HUD statistics?

Pretty comfortable i'd say…I have a big amount of hands under my belt and i've almost always used the same set…Obviously if i find some ideas that can improve are really welcomed…

2. What stats do you use for your given HUD?

6max:Is quite thin…I have name/vpip/pfr/af/3b/CB/FTCB/Steal/WTSD/Hands…Maybe i'm missing one or two stats…I don't use it really that much in every part…When i have a doubt i pass the mouse over a stat for the specific default pop up…and that's all…

head's up:Completely another thing…That's the hud i know the most and use the most…Vpip/pfr/(<–quite unuseful given the other stats but i live it there for sentimental reasonsEmbarassed)/vpip sb/vpip bb/3b%/f3b%/4b%/CB/FTCB/C-R flop%/CBT/FTCBT/WTSD/Hands…I'm quite sure i didn't forget any stat…


3. What are your typical ranges from each position?

Obv a 6 max question…I play pretty tight from every position and loosen up a little bit in the co and a lot in the btn…Let's say…8% from every position, 15% on the co and 25% on the btn…I don't know precisely but that's about my plan…

4. How drastic does either table dynamics or your image effect your ranges?

I usualy weight enough table dynamics into my ranges…My image don't…

5. According to the profile, what type of opponent are you? What opportunities do you have to modify that profile? Ex: ' I'm a thinking LAG. I find myself being exploited by players that take advantage of my 3 barrel bluffs' etc..

I think , fom my stats in the 6 max–> 16/12,that i see myself between the first 2 profiles…Uhm…Probably my major leak is that i often think that bad players are making stupid moves when they raise…

6. Discuss raise sizes from different positions, different scenarios. After reading these pages, do you plan to modify your approach?

Dunno what to discussLaugh…I'm thinking about committing a lot more time into 6 max, that's for sure…

9:56 am
June 30, 2009


Rooster

Guest

Pete said:

Does anyone disagree with any of the steal recommendations?

Yes

Page 23.

1. Position. You have 7♣ 6♣ on the button in a tough 6-handed
$1–$2 online game with $200 (100bb) stacks. One player raises to $6.
You are very unlikely to have the best hand. But you are in good
shape to steal. You reraise to $24. Everyone folds. Or, alternatively,
your opponent calls and checks to you on the flop. You bet $35. He
folds

I never 3bet a hand like 76s , the hand has more postflop value than preflop value , this is a light 3bet , we are hoping villian will fold and we get to steal the pot preflop

But if villian does call our 3bet we can assign a range to him as long as we have some sort of read , i can only assume that since we are 3betting light we either just sat down at the table or we have a read

Our equity with a hand like 78s vs a 3bet calling range is very poor , id much rather have Ax's or Kx's in this spot where we have a much better chance to hit top pair and our equity is larger
Vs TAG CO range a hand like 78s has about 35-40% equity where a hand like A7s has about 50% equity

SC with low equity play much better with a high SPR with lots of implied odds , where A7s hand has better equity , will make TP more often which is what you generaly look for in a 3bet pot

So why choose a hand like 78s to 3bet light with ??
why not something of high card value ??

Wouldnt it be nicer to have something to fall back on if our steal preflop doesnt work

Im not looking to get into a light 3 betting discussion as id much rather wait till ive read and the group is discussing that part of the book , but untill then im not wasting my good hand that plays well post flop by 3betting it.



1:11 pm
June 30, 2009


RML604

Member

posts 28

If we 3-bet with A9, for example, doesn't that hand give us horrible reverse implied odds?  Where as a hand like 76 has practically no reverse implied odds at all.


If you're 3 betting on the button, you're trying to steal it right there or steal it on the flop b/c you have position.  In my opinion, you're not wasting 76 when you 3 bet on the button b/c it's not that great of a hand heads up.  It's a much better hand multi-way, where you're looking to cooler someone. 


I think you're right when you say you don't want to waste your good hand by 3betting them, but in my opinion you'd be doing that with AJ, whereas you're not wasting 76 by 3betting it.


Anyone else have thoughts on this?  It's an interesting topic.

5:33 pm
June 30, 2009


jz1014

San Marcos, TX

Member

posts 32

Well, 3 betting with 76s on the button is a hell of a lot better than cold calling imo. That being said, you really shouldn't be limiting yourself to only 3 betting light with certain hands. You should be looking for spots where you are likely to get a fold, your hand value is secondary. I do prefer 3 betting with suited aces though because it also has a card removal effect, but I am never passing up an otherwise good opportunity just because my hand stinks.

1:27 am
July 1, 2009


Keifullstop

Member

posts 5

Post edited 8:39 am – July 1, 2009 by Keifullstop
Post edited 8:40 am – July 1, 2009 by Keifullstop


I think that 3betting ip ranges should depend from fold to 3 bet % of the opener and from how likely are the people left to act (if there is…) to get into the hand in any way…However i think that 3 betting ip is quite a big waste of money because it's SO strong…So actually a part of certain spots that are

- 3betting a tight early position opener with a really narrow range for raising(<5-6%) when i have AA/KK

-3betting someone who doesn't fold to 3bets oop and in general folds too little when i have a premium

(definitely there are some others but at the moment don't came to mindSmile…)


i almost never 3bet ip for value…I do this for several reasons…One is the above mentioned "waste" of money…I'm not going to 3bet a 15% utg pfr with 80% fold to 3bet% with aces on the button…Because he is going to FOLD…And i don't want it since his range is crushed by my hand and i do want him to make mistakes postflop (this choose is obviously not really the most standard/easy way to play aces…but i'm comfortable with it…)…Another reason is that playing this way it reinforces my flop floating/flop raising range and others at the table will be aware of it…

Since i mostly 3bet light ip i don't mind what hand i'm 3 betting with…I'm looking to win the pot right away…If i get a call I'm going to pound on a lot of flops above all if villain is the type of player to call oop with marginal hands and check fold the flop if he doesn't hit…


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